MORILLON KALKMERGEL

Kalkmergel is the name of the soil — a chalky limestone-marl that runs through the hills around the Stermetzberg — and Tamara names this bottling after it directly. It's Morillon, Styria's own word for Chardonnay, grown on those slopes around Ehrenhausen where machines can't reach and everything is done by hand.

Falstaff scored it 92 points: juicy, slim and filigreed, with a fine acid line and ripe stone fruit lingering into the finish. It's a wine built for people who think they know Chardonnay and don't expect this — texture from the soil, precision from the hand that farms it.